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Beader’s dictionary


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PAINTING WITH EFFECTS (See products)

Pebeo Prisme Fantasy paint is a paint that has amazing properties! During curing time, a pattern will slowly appear. Small circles appear similar to that of drop of oil in water. The intensity of the pattern varies according to the thickness of the paint used. It takes about 6 hours to dry in surface and 72 hours for it to fully dry. The paint can be applied using a small pipette on a flat or horizontal surface or a larger surface for better results. In jewelry making, this paint is often applied in hollow finishing accessories, then it is covered with transparent casting resin (when the paint is really dry) to create a bumpy and shiny effect. It is possible to clean the tools used during its application with mineral spirit. It is not recommended to expose it to direct sunlight.

PEARL

Pearls are organic gems created by bivalve marine mollusks, some freshwater snails and sometimes gastropods (shelled univalve mollusk). Pearls are formed when the mollusk is presented with a foreign body, like a grain of sand or a twig, which is inserted into its shell. To protect themselves from the irritation caused by the foreign body, the mollusk secretes layers of lime carbonate in the form of aragonite and conchiolin on element. This mixture is called nacre. The layers of nacre around the element gradually becomes the nucleus of a pearl, which is formed by piling up layer after layer of nacre. The finer the layers, the more intense the pearl’s luster will be. In addition to the luster, the orient (or sheen) is another factor that affects the value of pearls. The orient is basically the pearl’s shine. It results from the decomposition of the light in the nacre layering, and it provides the illusion of depth and iridescence. The worth of a pearl depends of its luster and sheen. The process to acquire them can take years. The color of the pearl varies according to the species of mollusk it comes from and its environment. Color, shape, size and symmetry are other factors that affect the quality and worth of a pearl. The commonly sought forms are: round, semi-round, button, drop, pear, oval (or grain of rice), baroque (irregular) and circled. The grain is the unit of measurement of pearls.

Akoya pearl

The Akoya pearls are commonly used for necklaces. These pearls come from saltwater oysters found in Japan, but also in China. They have been famed for over a century through grafting techniques in sea oysters, they usually measure between 2 and 9 mm in diameter. In nature, they can be found in the following colors : yellow, green and cream. They are often treated to become champagne, white or silvery in color. They are more transparent, more lustrous, brighter, and generally rounder than the freshwater pearls,. The Akoya pearls, however, take longer and are more difficult to produce, which explains their rarity and their high price. The difference between freshwater pearls and Akoya pearls is that they are not "inseminated" in the same manner. Thus, in the method used to create freshwater pearls, the nucleon is freed when drilling the pearl, so that it is only composed of nacre. In the case of Akoya pearls, they retain their nucleon or nucleus. Thus, when one looks at an Akoya pearl in full light, the nucleus can be seen in its center.

Biwa pearl

Biwa pearls are freshwater pearls that originate from Lake Biwa in Japan. Recently, the term has been used to designate all freshwater pearls from Japan.

Farmed pearl

In the eighteenth century, the dangers of fishing and the destruction of sites lead to the pearl farming. Most pearls available on the market today are farmed pearls. Whether freshwater or seawater, these pearls are produced through human intervention. They are the natural result of an artificial "insemination", which is a long and delicate process. Firstly, a technician carefully opens the living seashell. He then surgically implants one or more grafts (polished piece of shell), as appropriate. This nucleon become the nucleus of the pearl, around which the shell will secrete nacre to form the pearl. Once "inseminated", the oysters carrying their nucleons are then put back in the water to continue their growth. Once mature, the shells are open once again and, if everything goes well, there will be one or more pearls. There are different quality in farmed pearls. Their worth relies on factors such as shape, color, depth, brilliance and consistency. The first spherical cultured pearls were produced in 1740 by Carl Von Linné, more likely known for having invented the binomial scientific nomenclature. However, it was not until the early twentieth century that pearl farming techniques got sufficiently monitored to produce marketable pearls. Japanese Kokichi Mikimoto harvested the first farmed pearls of a perfect white and round shape. Thanks to his efforts, the Japanese pearl now enjoys a worldwide reputation, particularly in the case of the Akoya pearl. To produce the finest pearls, oysters require a perfectly healthy, pollution free and rich in plankton environment. This is why the pearl farms are located in unique, remote areas far from the polluting human activities. Pearl farming techniques are now mastered, and they allow pearls to grow as numerously as in the old days, with the bonus of an incredible diversity of usage and style. They are affordable, and suit all styles, from the classic to the most daring, from the most sober to the most exuberant.

Freshwater pearl

Freshwater pearls come from mussels living in rivers, lakes or bays in Japan, China and the United States. Quite small (though farmed pearls are bigger) and of an asymmetric shape most of the time, freshwater pearls are pastel in color in their natural state but they can be dyed. These pearls can be produced in large quantities, making them affordable. However, pollution threatens more than 75% of freshwater pearl mussel of extinction. China’s pearl mussels called Cristaria Plicata and Hyriopsis Cuminqii, farmed since the 1980s are quite easily obtainable, they abound and are not costly.

Keishi pearl

Keshi pearls can be found in both freshwater and seawater mollusks. They are formed when the oyster rejects the graft outside the area where the person’s hand inserted it. We then obtain core-less pearls with various forms. They are usually small and shapeless, since there is no nucleus to guide their development. Their colors are vary greatly. Since they are only made of nacre their incredible luster and sheen differentiate them from other cultured pearls.

Mabe pearls

These pearls grow against the inside of the oyster’s shell, like a growth, rather than inside of the mollusk. They are then cut from the shell and then sanded and smoothened to finally become "Mabe" pearls. They have an hemispherical shape. Their flat faces make them useful for earrings and rings, and even to hide a clasp. They are mainly produced by seawater oysters that live in the waters of Japan, Indonesia, French Polynesia and Australia. They are found in shades of white, pink and even blue. Although beautiful, they do not have the same worth as the fully grown pearls.

Natural pearl

Natural pearls (or fine pearls) are found in nature; in seas and in freshwater, and this without any human intervention. However, they are extremely rare and they represent only a small part of the pearls available on the market. Pearl mollusks rely on delicate, rare and fragile environments or ecosystems that may disappear because of sudden changes in the environmental balance.

Pearl replica

Pearl replicas are artificial pearls manufactured and produced by man. They have no real value, except for the jewel they compose. They can be made of glass, ceramic, shell or plastic. These materials make the nucleus of the pearl. They are then coated with colorful varnish and or other synthetic materials to mimic the look of a natural pearl. They are sold under various names, such as Mallorca pearls, artificial pearls, pearl imitation, fake pearls, simulated pearls, synthetic pearls or pearls of Majorca. An experienced jeweler can distinguish the real pearls from their replicas by examining the hole in the bead to see its interior composition or by using X-rays.

Sea pearls

Pearl oysters live along the coast of the Persian Gulf and the Gulf of Mannar (between India and Sri Lanka). Since Antiquity, it has been the place to fish oysters. Thus, all the pearls issued from oysters of this area are called oriental pearls, even if they come from Madagascar, Venezuela, etc. Large pearl oysters are found on the coasts of Burma, the Philippines, the Pacific Islands, Northern Australia and Central America.

South sea pearls

The southern seas lie between the northern coast of Australia and the southern coast of China. These waters are home to the large Pinctada Maxima oyster. This oyster can reach up to 30 cm in diameter, and can be "inseminated" with a nucleus much bigger than those found in other seawater oysters (such as the Akoya pearl). We then obtain pearls of 9-20 mm in diameter. They are relatively rare, hence their high price.

Swarovski pearl

Swarovski crystal pearls are specially designed to look like real natural pearls. A pearlescent coating is applied on a crystal core. This coating guarantees that the resulting pearl will be the perfect replica of a natural pearl. They are similar to real pearls not only in looks but also in weight and in their capacity to adapt to body temperatures. They are durable, resistant to scratches, to abrasion, to UV rays, to sweat and perfume. You can even wash them and dry-clean them if they are sewn on clothes.

Tahitian black pearls

These pearls are farmed from very large oysters with black lips (Pinctada margaritifera) found mainly around the islands of French Polynesia. Tahitian pearls are unique because of their natural dark color. Most Tahitian "black" pearls are in fact not black. Their color varies generally between gray, silver and anthracite, with highlights ranging from green to purple. These pearls are also very expensive, and nowadays they are farmed in French Polynesia and in the Tropical Pacific Ocean.

PEGS

In the fashion jewelry industry, a peg refers to small sticks used to work with the Jig tool. They come in various diameters and are made of metal or plastic. Some are included in perforated plate sets others can be bought separately. Simply insert the peg into the perforated plate to create guides for your metal wires. These guides allow for the conception of identically shaped forms, “craft” links and metal wire connectors. Use it with flexible metal wires such as copper, aluminum and silver (of any preferred gauge).

PENDANT (See products)

The term pendant refers to any jewel hanging from a chain around the neck. It may be hung to a ring, a bail, a gooseneck (integrated pendant), etc. A pendant can be of any shape and or material. In fashion jewelry, the pendant can be hung on a chain or on many other articles, such as necklaces, rigid metal cords, ribbons, and more.

PERFORATED DOME

The perforated dome is a round and curved piece of metal. It is similar to a strainer as it to has several small holes that allow for the threading of strings when weaving beads. The weaved dome can be worn as a broach, ring or as an eye catcher in a necklace or bracelet.

PEWTER (See products)

Pewter is a light malleable metal mildly ductile and silver-gray colored. Part of the carbon family, pewter is a pure metal, which means that it is not an alloy. It is a non-renewable resource. Mainly used to make utensils and when welding, pewter is also used to make corrosion inhibiting coatings for iron and copper. Furthermore, it is used to make many alloys such as bronze (a mix of copper and pewter). Pewter is a metal that erodes but at a slower rate than other metals, such as silver. However, it can react when put into contact with skins high in PH. It can be cleaned using a polishing cloth. To slow its eroding process even more, a transparent varnish can be applied on it.

PINS (See products)

Fastening system made of a pin and a clasp that allows a broach or an accessory to be pined to fabric. The pin can be made with a spring wire, like the safety pin or can be equipped with a pin linked to a metal base by a joint mechanism (ball-joint) and a rotating clasp. These pins can be glued, sewn or equipped with loops to attach charms. They are available in several lengths and metallic finishes.

PLASTIC (See products)

Plastic is a synthetic material that can be cast, molded or injected. It is often shaped using heat and pressure. The advantage of this material in the manufacture of fashion jewelry is that it allows for lightweight beads that can be manufactured at an insignificant price. However, the material often shows mold lines and the direction of the casting or injection site. Plastics materials include several synthetic or artificial polymers.

ACRYLIC (See products)

Thermoplastics such as acrylic melt and become malleable in the presence of heat. They retain their shape after cooling. This property allows for their recycling : objects are shredded and melted to make others. Acrylic is often used to replicate gemstone beads. It is also with acrylic that some gemstones are stabilized.

LUCITE (See products)

Popularized in the ‘40s, lucite is a synthetic material that is denser and stronger than plastic. It allows for a seamless finish without any markings. It is widely used because it mimics most materials very accurately.

RESIN (See products)

Resin is a thermosetting plastic made of two components : the resin and its hardener. Thermosets take their final shape in the first cooling which cannot be reverse. Beads made of resin are quite light and can imitate various materials, which makes them popular for jewelry making. There are several types of resins: Polyester resin has a viscous and liquid aspect. It is translucent and it is extensively used in the manufacturing of decorative objects and jewelry. The polyurethane resin is a resin that solidifies extremely fast. It is very robust and it is mainly used in engineered or mass-produced products. The epoxy resin is flexible and translucent. It can be used as a varnish. It is often used in jewelry because it can be sanded, polished, frosted and colored. The acrylic resin is massively used for the construction of theater or movie sets or for architectural reproductions. This is a resin used for the mass flow, and it does not shrink while hardening.

PLIERS

Pliers consist of a double branched articulated tool generally used to hold and cut. There are a variety of specialized pliers and on the market suitable for jewelry making.

Chain Nose Pliers

Pliers with pointy tips used to bend, squeeze, grab, hold and open rings. It is essential in any starting kit.

Crimping Pliers

These clamps are used to crush the crimp beads in two steps for a more solid, quiet and comfortable result, as the crimp pearl is then rounder. Since there are several dimensions of beads and crimp tubes, it is important to make sure to have the right tool. The micro pliers are used to crush the beads ranging from 1.3 to 1.5 mm in diameter. The standard clamp is used to crush pearls from 1.8 to 2 mm. It can also be used for beads of 2.5 mm, but the macro pliers are even more efficient. This type of pliers is used to crush the macro beads of 2.5 to 4 mm in diameter. It is also used to close crimp beads more easily.

Curved Chain Nose Pliers

Very useful pliers that can be used as second chain nose pliers. With their sharp curved nose they allow for meticulous projects. They are mostly used to open and close jump rings and for chainmail projects.

Cutter Pliers

Pliers used to cut through strings made of steel and covered of nylon, copper strings, silver string, fishing line and eye pins or straight head pins. Pliers of various alloys and sizes exist. It is important to pay attention to these characteristics as some pliers may be damaged by the kind of string being used notably by the memory wire or a string of a caliber that is too big.

Econo Pliers

Our Econo series of cutters include all “basic” cutters needed to make jewelry. The Econo name comes from the way they are engineered, the handles are formed independently and joined after forging and their jaws are made from various metal alloys. Under the Econo series there are cutters with standard and ergonomic handles. They are ideal for beginners or those that only occasionally make jewelry.

End Cutter Pliers

Sharp pliers that have the shape of end cutter pliers, which is why it shares the same name. The pliers’ blades open perpendicularly towards the hands, which enables a more precise cut. Some are slanted and others are thinner on one side to allow for a more precise cut. They are used to cut through steel strings covered with nylon, copper strings, aluminum strings, silver string, fishing line, eye pins or straight head pins. Do not use these with memory wire.

Ergonomic Pliers

Ergonomic pliers have the same functions as economic pliers but they have ergonomic handles designed by specialists. They allow for a better comfort when working and thus avoid the risk of tendinitis. After a couple of hours of consecutive work the difference in terms of comfort can be felt.

Flat and Cutter Combo Pliers

Multifunctional tool that combines the flat and cutter pliers in one handy tool. This tool shapes, bends, grabs, holds and even cuts strings. Use both of the flat arms to manipulate the strings and then cut them with the sharp part located in the middle of the pliers. These pliers are suited to work with soft metal strings such as copper, aluminum or silver.

Flat and Round Combo Pliers

Pliers that combine the flat and round nose pliers in one handy tool. Indeed one arm is flat while the other is round. These pliers are mainly used to curve strings without making a hollow scratch on the exterior part of the curve, which would happen with traditional round nose pliers. These pliers are suited to work with soft metal wires such as copper, aluminum or silver.

Flat Nylon Jaw Pliers

Pliers used with metal wires such as copper, aluminum and brass. Thanks to their nylon covered jaw, they can easily work with copper and aluminum without damaging the color or scratching the wires. They also smooth wires before shaping them. They offer a good grip but are not recommended for precision work.

Flush Cutter Pliers

Pliers used to cut short strings with more precision than regular cutter pliers. Indeed, since the blades are flat on one side, they cut the string without leaving any frayed edge. Just hold the flat side oriented in the direction of the desired section. Moreover, their pointy end allows them to cut pieces of strings that are hard to reach. It is used to cut through any kind of string. However, it is unwise to use it with the memory wire because it could alter the sharpness of the blades.

Half Round Nose and Nylon Jaw Combo Pliers

Pliers used to make curves or large eyelets with metal wires without damaging their surface. Equipped with a half-round nose arm and a flat arm covered with a protective nylon coat. The nylon-covered edges allow working with metal wires such as copper, aluminum or silver without leaving scratches or indentations.

Memory wire shear

Robust pliers that can cut almost effortlessly very strong strings thanks to its crossing blades. Very good quality pliers that are used to cut soft metal strings such as copper strings or though strings such as steel and titanium. They are essential when cutting memory wire or large mesh chain. However, these pliers are not precision tools.

Pro Pliers

Our Pro series of cutters include many “complementary” cutters that come in handy when one makes jewelry. The name Pro comes from the fact that they are used for more “advanced” or for “precision” techniques. They are made with many different types of metal alloys, articulations and handles. They are ideal for all who wish to bring their jewelry making to another level.

Round and Cutter Combo Pliers

Multifunctional tool which accelerates your production. These pliers allow you to shape, manipulate, curve and even cut wires. Use both of the round arms to curve wires and cut them with the sharp part of the pliers that is located at the pliers’ center. They are suited to any projects made with soft metal wires such as copper, aluminum or silver.

Round Nose and Nylon Jaw Combo Pliers

Versatile pliers used to make curves or large eyelets with metal wires without damaging their surface. Equipped with a round nose arm and a flat arm covered with a protective nylon coat. The nylon-covered edges allow working with soft metal wires such as copper, aluminum or silver without leaving scratches or indentations.

Round Nose Nylon Pliers

Round pliers that make loops without leaving traces on the strings. Their nylon tips prevent scratches on metal strings. These pliers are ideally used for strings of a big caliber such as 18 or 16. Replacement tips are included in the package.

Round Nose Pliers

Pliers with a jaw that ends in a conical shape. It is mostly used to work with metal string of copper, aluminum, eye pins, straight head pins, loops and figure 8 shape mesh or any other curved shape. These pliers are essential in a starting kit as are the chain nose and the cutter pliers.

Select Pliers

Our Select series of cutters includes all “basic” cutters needed to make jewelry. The Select name comes from the way they are engineered, at the time of forging, one handle is formed around the other creating a joint referred to as a box and their jaws are made from stainless steel. Under the Select series there are cutters with standard and ergonomic handles. They are best for those who make jewelry on a regular basis.

Split Ring Pliers

Pliers designed to facilitate the insertion of elements in split rings. Split rings or split endless rings look like small springs, which is why it is hard to open them. These pliers have a hooked nose, which enables you while using one hand, to create a space in the ring’s spring and insert elements with your other hand.

Square Flat Nose Pliers

Versatile pliers. They are mostly used to close connectors in a “U” shape and to open and close jump rings. Thanks to their large flat nose, they can hold and keep objects stable without deforming or twisting them.

Wire Looping Pliers

Pliers especially designed to make loops and regular eyelets. They have a conical part and a hollow part and they can curve strings with very little pressure. Thanks to its concave part, the string is automatically curved onto the round part. They facilitate, improve and accelerate the formation of simple or double eyelets. They are especially effective to make eyelets on memory wire, this wire being more difficult to curve with round nose pliers.

POLYMER CLAY (See products)

A bit like play-dough, polymer clay (found under the trademarks Sculpey, Fimo or Premo) is easily manipulated and gives free rein to imagination in regards to the creation of original beads and pendants. Polymer clay can be shaped in many ways. Some techniques are quite simple and require less experience, such as in modeling, extrusion or molding. Other techniques are much more complex, for instance, the manufacturing of canes, image transfer and "Mokume-gane" are techniques requiring a greater experience in handling polymer clay. Once the modeling is complete, the dough must be baked in a conventional oven according to the instructions of the various brands sold. Polymer clay is a material made from PVC (polyvinyl chloride). There are also liquid plasticizer to increase its malleability. To color the dough, various pigments are added to a translucent base. To make it opaque, a small amount of kaolin (Chinese white clay) or opaque agent is added. Mica can also be added to simulate a pearlescent or metallic effect. There are a multiplicity of tools adapted to work with polymer clay: Super blade used to cut accurately while preventing the crushing or deformation of the dough; Acrylic roller to extend the dough; Dough Softener to relax and soften the dough if it is too hard; Glaze to give a little shine or luster to your creations; Clay processor mechanically extends the dough; Clay extractor extrude the dough into a multitude of forms; Pulp mold to make custom molds in order to reproduce dough shapes endlessly; Modeling clay tool used to shape the dough.

PORCELAIN (See products)

Porcelain is a fine and translucent ceramic. It is composed of kaolin (white clay) and it is baked at high temperature (1200 °).

PRECIOUS STONE

In France, the only stones said to be precious are diamonds, sapphires, emeralds and rubies. Around the world, this term refers to any gem of great value.

PREMO

Polymer clay that can be fashioned and baked per the packaging's instructions. This line of product offers a nice choice of vibrant colors. This clay is flexible enough, which helps when it’s being fashioned. It is usually used when crafting small details. This clay maintains some flexibility once baked, thus it can be fashioned, pierced, sanded and painted and the colors remain vibrant once baked. It is possible to mix the colors. The PREMO clay can be mixed with other polymer clays.

PRIMARY COLORS

Primary colors are cyan, magenta and yellow. These three colors are the base of all the existing colors. They can be match as is in jewels or for a maintained colorful contrast, combined them with a complementary color (orange green and violet). It can also be harmonious if these colors are added in small amounts with monochromatic colors.

PROTECTIVE COATING (See products)

Mixture in which you dip your pliers, whether round or flat, to coat them with a protective film. Once dry, the mixture solidifies and forms a rubbery coat. This protective coat covers the edges of the pliers to reduce pressure marks, skid marks and scratches on the metal wires, due to manipulation. This film is not harmful to your pliers. Since it’s not permanent, you can simply peel it off to remove it and dip it again to renew the process. Do not use it with cutter pliers.

PUNCH (See products)

Tool used to make 1/16 in and 3/32 in holes. It allows to easily pierce soft metals of a caliber of up to 24. It is also possible to pierce leather sheets. The tool is very easy to use : put the material inside of one of the jaws and turn the screw clockwise.